Kiruna

 

It's not sunrise, it's not sunset, what is it? Perpetual dawn.

Mid-Sweden University is so called because it's about halfway up the length of Sweden. Meaning that there's a lot between us here in Östersund and, well, anywhere. Last week I finally got to see more of this country; homogenous as it is. I just got back from Kiruna in the far, far north, where I did a weeklong trip with friends. And a trip to remember!

Arrival in town at 8:30PM 

Kiruna is famous for being the northernmost city in Sweden and for its ongoing re-location. The whole city is being moved 3 kilometers (1.86 miles) to the east because of subsidence from Europe's largest iron mine. The LKAB (Luossavaara-Kiirunavaara Aktiebolag) is a state-owned company and effective reason for the founding and continued existence of the town. This whole re-location business was decided in a referendum 20 years ago, where 96% voted in favor. As far as I know this situation is entirely unique in the world. Most countries would just bulldoze the whole operation and build something cheap in replacement. But here, they are taking genuine care to move as many old structures as possible and build a modern, livable city. OK, lecture over. 

The place has a real end-of-the-road vibe to it, the same that you find in Ely, MN actually. From Östersund it was a 14 hour bus ride. (it was this or a night train, and the bus was a lot cheaper...) Do these things while you're young, right? It's not horrible if you sleep for most of it, and the scenery if pretty good if not all the same. Gray and white, gray and white. We did see quite a few moose, reindeer, and most impressive of all, four Dutch people! It was a family heading to a very remote homestead 30 miles from the nearest town. (the bus driver, for reasons that are still not clear, was also Dutch) So I talked with them for a while.

It was a nice bus at least! Maybe too much Ice Road Truckers energy... they also do cargo in the below deck storage. Sweden really is a strange place. Most stops are just a sign on the side of the road!

We were seven people in a pretty good sized AirBnB, midway between old town and new town. Cozy, but we like each other just fine. About €85 per person for five nights, so really not bad at all. The whole trip was something on the order of €250, everything included. So quite a deal considering all we did! 

With clouds, this is about as bright as it gets. Winter wonderland indeed!

Not unlike the US at all- though with fewer cars, it must be said. 

Bundled up for -15℃/5℉

And that began with a trip to the new city center! Everything is new in the last five years and they've done a pretty good job in the redesign. We did a little hike around the edge of town and saw more than one person out skijoring. (which is where you're pulled by dogs while on skis, in case you've forgotten) A trip to the magical store Fritidsbanken to rent some skis rounded out the day. 

A typical Kiruna residence. I'd reckon about 50cm/20in of snow on the ground.

Most of what we did was ski! Both cross country and downhill, though I like the former a lot more up here. Friday was especially magical: we began with pancakes midmorning, did a 10km loop on the skis under the northern lights, then headed back home to eat chili, many clementines, and watch movies. 

This picture really captures the essence of the week.

They say winter ages you and that's especially true for myself and Keke on the left there. 

Our first attempt at skiing in town was foiled by some of the worst conditions I've ever skied in: blasting winds, -10℃, and rime ice forming on every surface. Sunday brought better conditions at the Luossavaarabacken, which has somewhere on the order of 156m/511ft of vertical. 

Pretending not to be cold! I'm third from left in red. 

Incredibly, you can ski here for just SEK 170/USD 17 per day. They do love to be outside!

All good things have got to end, and we took the same bus route but in reverse for 15 hours all day on Monday. A little longer this time because of a crashed truck which had to be cleared. I'd say the week was worth all the bus travel- easily!

At the university canteen they had a traditional Swedish Christmas lunch. Greasy and salty as it gets, and my first time trying Jansonsfretlesse here. And on the right, that's me all suited up for last night at the student pub for the year.