Now with just three of us in the van, travel became much simpler. We left Trento behind, stopped at a lake for our weekly bath, and headed up to the high country again. (also hoping that the temporary plexiglass window on the passenger side would hold!) It was a classic trailhead camp spot with stunning views; though still a parking lot. Despite some ambitions from Adam to wake up at 4AM and climb another pinnacle, we had a good dinner and slept very well.
We did get a pretty impressive hike in regardless! Because such things are pretty easy to do in the Dolomites, we climbed for over a thousand meters up to a stunning blue lake and refugio. Typical Europe, a place to enjoy coffee and snacks even halfway up a mountain. To our disbelief, an espresso here was just €1.50. Italians are secretly crazier about their coffee than any other country... places like Colorado would do well to learn from this. On our way back, we saw their advanced resupply system in action: a single cable running a few kilometers down the valley, to pull up food and to send down garbage. The key to their whole operation!
It was back to a lower elevation near Trento for the night; with the intention of getting the window fixed in the morning. The views got top marks, but the service at this garage... well, no score because they didn't order the stinkin' window! Probably down to a miscommunication when we were with them on Friday, and that's with an Italian speaker negotiating things. The van did get an oil change, so we didn't walk away totally empty-handed. That night I recall driving back up high and sleeping next to an old barn on an impossibly steep hillside- which, under normal circumstances, would be a stunning and well-documented camp spot, but on this trip we got a little spoiled.
Wednesday the 29th had us on a gigantic multipitch climb up the south face of Monte Lagazuoi Piccolo. Known for its views on other famous peaks and a collection of restored trenches, tunnels, and galleries from the first world war. Though to be completely honest, I didn't know the name of this peak until writing this now! It was 200 meters (ca. 650 feet) straight up, though really easy climbing in retrospect. Didn't even put the climbing shoes on! And the views from the summit, holy cannoli... it was swarming with people thanks to the cable car, which would've provided for an easier path up to the top.
It was a lazy day on the 30th, driving into Cortina d'Ampezzo for groceries. Which was actually one of my least favorite experiences on the whole trip. The place is swarming with people, it's hot, everything is ultra luxurious and fashionable. Food is 50% more expensive and the GPI (gelato price index) is through the roof. For these reasons we didn't stay long and quickly drove back up the pass to make pancakes and sit around in a meadow.
The next few days was a sort of lull in the trip; though for serious reasons: we were doing a little sport climbing at an almost roadside crag when Adam proposed we do some fall-training. (because learning how to fall and land properly is important while climbing; there was the possibility that we could do a big climb the next day) Typically this is done on overhangs where you fall into open air, but we practiced on a slabby, not-quite-vertical bit of rock. The reasoning is that you should learn to fall where you would realistically fall! Fatefully so, because Frida banged her knee against the rock after a few attempts. It wasn't broken, but had a nasty cut and swelled like mad. (pictures not included for obvious reasons)
Lucky for us climbers are always well-prepared! Within minutes there were a few others helping us, even a doctor who gave surprisingly hands-off advice. (something along the lines of "it's fine, just get it x-rayed to be safe!") Thus our evening was spent in the incredibly old-fashioned hospital of Cortina, which looked to have been built around the turn of the century. This whole affair, and some inclement weather, quite derailed our plans for the next days.
I say "a lull in the trip" because we have hardly any pictures between this and our arrival in Germany! So stick with me as I channel my inner artist and paint you a picture in words. After getting some laundry and groceries done, we took a final gelato and planned the next days. Namely: how much driving is too much? The answer remains indefinite to this day and I shudder to think of all the time I spent in that van... it's a double edged sword!
There was time for one last cheap pizza in Italy just before driving over the Brenner pass into Austria on the motorway, camping up in a rather secluded valley for the night. It's colder, the mountains are greener here, the villages smaller, farther apart, and well-kept with too many geraniums in the windows. A place I never, ever thought I would visit, the small town of Schmirn. Curiously this was next to a football pitch, where a cup-match for the local team was taking place. This much was explained to us, distractedly, by Gerhard, a local guy who we drank beer with. Alas the home team lost on penalties...
And the next we were in Innsbruck, but only passing through for a day. We left the van at the largest climbing gym in the world and headed into the city to see the place. It's historic, crowded, and every time you look up, the mountains are teasing you. I recall it rained a lot, we looked at various stores for climbing gear, and talked with an American guy in the Patagonia store who gave us free patches. Reinforcing that brand loyalty! After some apple strudel and coffee we were back on the road for a rather long drive into Germany.
A late arrival to some forest campsite (with six other van life campers!) and and an early morning followed, we were now in the frankenjura climbing region, two hours north of Munich. It's said some of the hardest climbs in the world are found here, on crimpy, pitted limestone cliffs tucked away in old forests. Nothing so tall but really technical. I had some of my best climbing of the trip here, and we stayed for most of the day. There was a Dutch family climbing there too, though expatriated to Norway and living in Oslo. I talked for a bit with them; anything to keep that babbling language fresh in my mind. Even Frida was climbing, despite the stiff and sore knee! (this was definitely against doctors orders... but she did it well!)
We spent a single night in Leipzig with our friend Raja (also one of the Östersund crew! The network of friends really is crazy) and ate some excellent döner kebab for €5, one of the only places in Europe you can get it so cheaply. If I have any regrets it's not spending more time here... it really has the same feeling as Paris, with broad avenues, tall apartments, and huge old trees. We explored the canals, yes, the canals, by canoe and ate plenty of this legendary German bread. It is much better than the pasty crap we were getting in Italy. Perhaps the city kept us for too long, we didn't leave for another long drive until eight in the evening!
Oldenburg was the destination, where Frida studies at the eponymous university. Our presence in this fine city was demanded because she had an appointment for some vaccines on the 3rd of August; so naturally we arrived in the wee hours of that day. This is how we roll. From those long hours on the autobahn I vividly remember Adam's endless concern about a strange flapping or clunking sound coming from somewhere underneath the car- we stopped at least three times to see what the heck this might be! To this day the true cause remains unknown.
This whole drive was also done with a piece of plexiglass over the passenger side window; the most convenient option to replace it was in Bremen, 45 minutes from Oldenburg. (except it didn't get replaced today; the garage ordered the wrong window despite their assurances. The odyessy continues...) And you readers should know by now, if it's a major German city, then odds are I know someone there! We took the opportunity to meet up with Laurens, who graciously gave us a tour of the old town. We spent a long time yapping; after all it was probably the busiest summer of my life!
As we waved goodbye and got in the van, Adam just barely tapped the front bumper of a red Ford Fiesta parked semi-legally behind us. The owner was on the scene in seconds, a furious old woman who was playing jeu de boules nearby. It was the only traffic-accident of the trip and it took some serious negotiation in German to get out of it. Thank goodness Frida and Laurens were there! In my opinion, this was a pretty minor scratch- but this woman wasn't having it. In the end, no insurance was exchanged, only €100 in cash and no questions asked.
The final days of this crazy summer trip were spent sleeping in, eating good food, and exploring the city with Frida as our guide. For me, it's like Middelburg but scaled up a few times. If that city in Zeeland could realize its full potential, it could be just like Oldenburg. (though M'burg would need five times the students!) I was sad to leave it on August 7th after a lovely few days... I exchanged many hugs and promises to meet again at the bus station! And what a wonderful time it was, with such wonderful people. One last voyage with FlixBus brought me back to The Netherlands after two months away, and that's where I find myself now! But this seems like a good place to end things for now, the end of an era as they say.
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